twenty three point five

Archive for September, 2010

istanbul design week 2010: 29th sept- 3rd oct

This relative newcomer on the international design fair circuit has received something close to blockbuster interest from industry insiders this year…

And it’s no surprise really when you think about Istanbul’s historic influence on design: this is, after all, gateway between the east and west and a city where tradition overlaps with modernity.

Having thrown open its doors to the public this morning, IDW 2010 sees established and upcoming designers from across the world flocking to Istanbul to show their latest work under the theme “meeting”. Once again taking place on the remodelled Galata Bridge that stretches across the Golden Horn of the Bosphorus River, this year’s scaled-up fair will also host a jam packed programme of workshops, lectures, parties, awards and competitions.

At the epicentre of this design circus is W Istanbul. Confirming itself as one of the city’s principal social hubs and a key supporter of an emerging generation of exceptional design talent, W Hotels has joined up with American Express to present the prestigious Istanbul Young Designer Award at IDW 2010.

With past exhibitions including giant Turkish delight seating by local Turkish studio Pinocchio Design, the stage has been set for fresh, inspiring and tongue in cheek designs.

Sample the very best in international modern creativity; experience Istanbul’s flourishing art scene and celebrate its cultural heritage with W Hotels during Istanbul Design Week 2010.

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shoot for the stars


What’s the national sport of Bhutan? Football? Definitely not, Bhutan currently ranks 202nd in the world, out of ehem, 203. Some sort of martial arts dance maybe? Nope. The national sport of our new favourite destination is Archery. However, in Bhutan it’s more than just a sport with a bow and a few arrows. It’s a way of life, a means of gathering an entire village for an occasion, a way of preserving their distinctive culture and ancient heritage, and a way of demonstrating to the rest of the world what it means to be Bhutanese. But don’t take our word for it. We’ve had the exclusive opportunity to gain an insider’s knowledge to seek the ins and outs on why this sport is such an integral part of the spirit of Bhutan.

When was your last game of archery?
I played archery two weeks ago

Can you recollect your first game of archery, was it a success?
My first game of archery was played when I was at school, I was about 8 years old. Every summer and winter, our family used to go to our ancestral village to meet our grandparents and relatives to participate in rituals. During that time, the young boys used to get together and play archery on bamboo bows and arrows. One of our older relatives (uncle or brother) usually taught us.

How is Bhutanese archery different to the Western style?

traditional bhutan archery

traditional bhutan archery

Two outright essential differences are the distance of the archery range and the size of the target. For Bhutanese archery, the range distance is around 150 meters and the target height is 3 feet and the width is 1 foot. One sure needs lot of practice and consistency to be a good archer.

What happens during an Archery competition?
During a competition, each archery range has two teams competing. Usually, each team has 12 to 13 players and each player gets to shoot a pair of arrow in each direction. Once everyone completes shooting, then they go to the other side of the range and shoot in the opposite direction. Each hit is 2 points and 1 point when the arrow sticks firmly in the ground within the length of the target. The team that gets the first 25 points win the game. Usually, it is best of three games (25 points each). When both teams are good, the game even drags into a second day. In actual competition, each team has group of dancers (ladies) who cheer for the team and distract the opposing team. There are a few organized competitions held each year for both traditional equipment (bamboo) and for imported/compound equipment. The prizes range from refrigerators, to washing machines, to colour TV’s, to cars and cash awards.

getting ready for the competition

getting ready for the competition

In recent times, as people have more disposable income, imported bows are getting more popular. A Bow is their prized possession. There are numerous random competitions held between offices, groups of friends, and villages. Every village has an archery range and high- spirited competitions are held as part of every festival. During popular competitions, there are over 100 teams registered. Most adult Bhutanese men find everyday happiness in playing the game and it is quite common to see their bow and arrow in their car. They go to the archery field right after work for practice or play for money. During weekends and holidays, all the archery fields are packed. All Bhutanese wear our everyday wear, our national costume (“Gho” for men) while playing archery.

We have read there are numerous superstitions that surround an archery competition. Do you know any?
Yes, indeed. There is much more to the game. The archers spend the days before the competition in diligent preparation, meeting with astrologers and lay monks known as ‘Tsips’ to determine the order of shooters, time to start and pause for intermission, and the direction the team must enter the field from. The team visits a few temples and seeks divine intervention. The village deities are propitiated. Everything depends on astrological alignments. Before a crucial game, to protect the bows and arrows from any harm, they are kept inside the temple and no one is allowed to touch them.

Can women play day-to-day and during competitions?

taking aim

taking aim

Yes, women can play if they want to but since traditionally they have not played, it is uncommon to see women play archery. Having said that, our women do participate in the western style archery competition at regional and Olympic Games. That is the only sport where Bhutanese men and women participate in the Olympics.

What does archery mean to you?
Archery is one sport that unites the Bhutanese. It is our national favorite past time and it is part of our ancient tradition and culture. It is unique, colourful, and lively bringing together both old and young folks. It is our identity.

Discover the Nations passion for Archery in Bhutan.

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dance on the lake of stars


The European Festival circuit may have packed away its Hunters for the winter hibernation, but just a little further afield the music is still very much playing on…

festival goers at the lake of stars ©eddiefestival

festival goers at the lake of stars ©eddiefestival

This year, October 15th sees the start of our favourite below-the-radar music festival when Lake of Stars returns to the warm shores of Lake Malawi.

Forget traipsing across sodden, muddy fields in the English countryside only to loose your friends amidst frenzied crowds of thousands- this intimate festival prides itself on a close-knit cutting edge fusion of local Malawian music, blended with a stellar handful of Europe’s most progressive DJs and live acts; including the Noisettes, Jon McClure of Reverend and the Makers, and current scene-stealers Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.

the mazzabees headline the stage in 2009 ©eddiefestival

the maccabees headline the stage in 2009 ©eddiefestival

This carefully curated line-up attracts something of a dedicated following among a few of the music industry’s very famous insiders (Basement Jaxx, DJ Yoda and Groove Armada to name drop a few) seeking a festival experience that’s a little bit different, and they’re definitely onto a good thing. There probably isn’t a better location to kick back in some mid-October heat than Malawi’s sun-bleached sands. Pitch up at the idyllic in-house beach bar or step to the rhythm on the locally-built wooden dance floor against a backdrop of twinkling fishing boats gently bobbing on calm waters.

Go on…take your festival gear on one last outing in Malawi.

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a malaysian night in london

Foodies, this is one event not to miss. Until 10pm tonight a whirlwind of exotic foods from Malaysia will descend upon Trafalgar Square as a pasar malam (night market) sets up shop. From smokey chicken satay and spicy curry laksa, to succulent beef rendang and sweet vibrant kueh (pudding), taste the best of Malaysian cuisine here in London tonight.

smokey satay

smokey satay

Stalls will be run by some of London’s best Malaysian restaurants, including Makan Café and L’ail Olive. But it won’t just be about eating. There will be a Tea Bar serving up Malaysia’s homegrown tea – keep an eye out for teh tarik (pulled tea) where tea is poured from one cup to another to create what can only be described as a tea cappuccino – and all the crucial ingredients will be available to buy so that you can create all the delicious Malaysian goodness back at home.

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africa is a big place

africa is a big place

africa is a big place

Lauren Scott, another of our travel experts / safari addicts reports on her latest adventure into one of her favourite countries: Kenya.

head out on safari

head out on safari

Africa is a big place. You’ve seen the Lion King, watched Born Free more times than you would care to admit and know everything there is to know about Dennis Finch-Hatton. You want to go on safari. Now.

But where to start?

As Googling “safari” gets you the latest apple software (and your ruby red slippers are broken) you’re going to have to call in reinforcements. You need a “fundi” (an expert).

Now I am no fundi, but I have, by chance, luck and various stars aligning been on a number of safaris, the majority of which have taken place in East Africa. I have slept in camp beds, sleeping bags, hammocks and king sized doubles – I am generally happy as long as I can see the sunrise when I wake up and the stars when I go to bed, but there are some safari trips, select itineraries and destinations that combine to exceed every expectation.

I have just had one such trip.

Three stops, three totally different experiences with one thing in common – pure, unadulterated, authentic, African luxury. I won’t give away all the secrets – you will in due time, if I do a good enough job with this article, discover them for yourself. But here is a little of what I saw and am now, very strongly, encouraging you to see for yourself.

Stop One. Sirikoi

zoe the zebra at sirikoi

zoe the zebra at sirikoi

You start at Sirikoi, which is where my love of safari began. If my first trip to Kenya, (to the Chyulu Hills) gave me a little crush then Sirikoi is where I realised this might be something serious. I came for the first time three years ago and have dreamt my way back there on many a noisy night in New York City.

The camp is on Lewa downs, hand-crafted, owned and run by safari legend Willie Roberts and his wife Sue, whose shamba (vegetable garden) is a sight to be seen. Sirikoi was built with an intrinsic understanding of, and respect for, the land which they both know and love so well, and you can see it in every detail. It is the definitive safari lodge.

The main difficulty here seems to be convincing the guests to leave when its time to go home. (I was once such difficult guest).

Accommodation ranges from beautifully decorated tented rooms (strewn with first edition Africana and family heirlooms) to a palatial cottage (ideal for those who need a few more creature comforts). Meals take place in the company of the resident Vervet monkeys, whole herds of elephants (less than 50 feet away at the camp’s watering hole) as well as the camp’s newest addition, Zoe the Grevy Zebra, who has adopted all who live there as her herd. I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again, Sirikoi is special.

Stop Two. Lemarti’s

lemarti's camp

lemarti's camp

When you do finally manage to leave, I suggest the next stop as Lemarti’s camp. By now you have seen some game (in fact its highly likely that you have seen all of the big (and little) five in the space of a few short days) so its time for some culture. Kenya is a beautiful place, but it becomes infinitely more so when you spend time finding out about the people who call this their home.

Lemarti’s camp is situated on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiru river, in Northern Lakipia and has already become a legend in the safari world. With only five guest tents, the camp is intimate and, in the twinkling paraffin lights of the night, hugely romantic.

Built around a centenary fig tree (considered sacred and annually blessed by the local tribesmen on whose land you are a guest) it is believed that the tree blesses all those who come to it. There is magic in the air.

lemarti's camp grounds

lemarti's camp grounds

This camp, owned and run by fashion designer Anna Trzebinski and her Samburu husband Lemarti, is all about authenticity and glamour.  Anna has personally designed every detail of the camps aesthetics with beautiful results. There are so many spaces for lying around  that it’s easy to begin to feel as regal as you are, no doubt, looking.

But this place doesn’t only look good, at Lemarti’s you don’t simply “witness” the Samburu way of life, you have a rare opportunity to become part of it. Lemarti, and his best friend from childhood, Boniface welcome you into their extended family, teach you the ways of the Samburu and Maasai people and share their customs with you with an irresistible warmth and charm.

Trips to the market and local school, bush walks and games of boa fill the days with stories round the fire and the smell of paraffin throughout the nights.

In all my travels I have seen nothing that compares.

Stop Three. Manda Bay

manda bay

manda bay

Safari’s can be surprisingly tiring, which is why most good agents (and fundi’s of course) recommend a few days of total R & R at the end of the trip. My final stop was the coast in Lamu, a coastal town where African and Arabic culture’s merge with spectacular results.

Manda Bay is one of a number of possible destinations here but, in my experience, for sightings, sundowners and stories, the best possible option. Part owned and run by Andy Roberts’s (Willy Roberts’s, of Sirikoi’s brother), the lodge is totally Roberts(on) Crusoe

White sandy beaches + cocktails on one of the beautiful old dhow’s….I don’t need to say much more! (but I will)

Apart from the obligatory lounging around (on your swing, sun beds, and sofas – you choose your poison / position) there are a huge amount of possible pastimes here. Fishing (for sailfish), exploring the local ruins (stunning), snorkelling, scuba diving….massages with “Alice who takes you to wonderland”. This.place.is.heaven and the ideal end to this spectacular trip.

And so this is my (the) ultimate safari. You will come back with photos, stories, a tan, and, most likely an addiction to African exploration that will be impossible to cure.

You’re welcome.

(Dennis Finch-Hatton not included. Sorry.)

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W makes a fashionable entrance in london

w hotel and james small

w hotel and james small

Introducing the brand spanking new meeting point for international trendmakers… Situated slap bang in the middle of London, (Leicester Square no less), W’s latest outpost is set to make a very big impression on London Fashion Week’s in-crowd  with the global launch of James Small’s belt.

Confirming W’s position as the favourite hotel of the fashion set, this luxurious leather unisex belt created exclusively for W London, combines functionality and fashion.

cutting edge design at w hotels

cutting edge design at w hotels

Brainchild of up-and-coming designer du jour, James Small, the belt is inspired by W’s signature innovative design- incorporating a hip flask, charger and decision dice, ensuring present day urban adventurers are never without the technology that fuels their travel.

Fashionistas who attended the star-studded launch on 22nd September of Small’s belt were treated to a sneak preview of W’s signature cutting-edge design for the UK’s very first W Hotel.

Here’s to putting the W in London fashion Week.

Check back to Black Tomato for a new collaboration coming soon…

Louis Simonon wearing the W London Insider belt designed by James Small for W London

Louis Simonon wearing the W London Insider belt designed by James Small for W London

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top ten places to get off the grid

get off the grid

get off the grid

1. chile: touch the stars in atacama desert
Solitude seekers head to northern Chile into the arms of the wild winds of the Atacama Desert.  This rain starved plateau stretches 1000km, touching both the Andes and the Pacific. Reach breathless new heights as you climb its arid platform to marvel one of nature’s most powerful climatic extremes.

2. iceland: dive the tectonic plates
Remember those childhood geography lessons on continental drift?  At the tip of the Reykjanes peninsula in southwest Iceland, tectonic plates are shifting and grinding in an endless clash of gargantuan subterranean forces.  Abandon the noise of the city and find peace and quiet as you plunge into the deep glacial waters between the plates.

the hulu tribesmen

the hulu tribesmen

3. papua new guinea: meet the natives
The isolated Huli people of the Tari Valley know a lot about living in harmony with natural beauty.  The vibrant valley they call home is punctuated with dramatic waterfalls and dense tropical forest bursting with a kaleidoscope of flora and fauna.  Wake up to the chatter of Lorikeets and Eclectus, or watch the ebb and flow of local life from your boat on the Karawari River.

4. bhutan: awaken your spirit
Welcome to the unexplored backcountry of the Kingdom. Bhutan is a trove of beautiful hidden details, look closer at vertiginous valley walls and you’ll find ancient settlements built into the rock face. With the terrain dropping a massive 3km as you cross the region,Bhutan offers a meteorological journey- transporting you from Alpine cool to sub-tropical temperatures.

desert isolation in the gobi desert

desert isolation in the gobi desert

5. mongolia: desert isolation
Sick of the queues and the crowds? With a tag line of “isolation guaranteed”, the wilderness of the Gobi Desert in southernMongolia truly does what it says on the tin.  The desert hosts some of the world’s clearest skies. Lay your head down on a pillow and spot the constellations from your camp under the stars.

6. namibia: bone picking on skeleton coast
Nick-named The Land God Made in Anger, Namibia’s deserted coastline is the closest thing to an abyss you’re ever likely to experience.  What this unusual landscape lacks in life it more than makes up for in rare beauty: watch the suns rays light up gemstone beaches and crawl through its tumbling sand dunes and shimmering salt pans.  Admire the strange elegance of the animal and human skeletons scattered across this stark landscape and be the last man standing as you find yourself isolated with only ghost crabs for company.

cast yourself away on pansy island

cast yourself away on pansy island

7. mozambique: cast yourself away on pansy island
Pansy Island is a teeny-tiny paradise that emerges fromMozambique’s emerald waters at low tide.  Its delicate name echoes the ethereal nature of this island: with nothing more than a sprinkling of white sand, crystal clear waters and pansy shells – this is quintessential desert island bliss.

8.costa rica: make your mark on nicoya peninsula
Teetering on the northern Pacific coast of Costa Rica, across the Gulf of Nicoya, this remote retreat truly deserves the title of off the beaten track.  A visit to one of these sparkling beaches is not a question of parking the car and unloading the deck chairs – Pass through steamy dense jungle and be the first to make footprints on secluded immaculate white beaches.

the aleppo domes in syria

the aleppo domes in syria

9. syria: discover ancient cities
From bazaars to blind alleys, minarets to mosques there is hardly a city in the world that has packed so much Arabian charm and buzzing energy into such a small space. Lose yourself in the maze-like alleys of the Old City: peer through mysterious Narnian doorways revealing picturesque fountains and ornately decorated houses, this is the city that time forgot.

10. french guiana: lock yourself away on devil’s island
For a genuine ‘escape’ head to the tropical wilds of Devils Island. Earning its place in history as a notorious French penal colony in the 19th century, Isles du Diable was once the world’s most challenging prison to escape; fall of the grid and throw away the key in this atmospheric corner of South America.

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wear in the world

With London Fashion Week in full swing its made us at Black Tomato think how fashion has fuelled many of us to travel. From picking up the latest trend in Japan to seeing the vibrant cloth made in Bhutan.

But at the same time we’re all a bit complacent when it comes to fashion – being very spoilt by a high speed high street that turns trends around from catwalk to one-click shopping. So we think it’s time we get out there and pick up those authentic goodies from the destinations they were born and bred. Here are a few tips on where to go for those fashion must-haves.

1928 Schott Brother’s Perfecto, New York, USA

Although the French may have appropriated (and gentrified) the iconic black leather jacket, this Left Bank favourite, famously worn by Marlon Brando in the 1953 movie The Wild One, was born in the USA.

schott brother's leather jacket as modeled by marlon brando

schott brother's leather jacket as modeled by marlon brando

The brainchild of the entrepreneurial Schott Brothers Irving and Jack, this jacket instantly satisfied America’s burgeoning appetite for outdoor pursuits. The brother’s hit a nerve. The motorcycle meant something more: turning your back on suburbia for the freedom of the open road. And where Brando went many followed…the Perfecto quickly became a mainstay of the outsider uniform. But, unlike today’s impersonators, the real success of this rebel item is rooted in design rather than aesthetics: by shifting the zip to the right hand side, the Schott jacket was wind-proof on the open road and riders were good to go. With Irving Schott naming the 1928 style the ‘Perfecto’ after his favourite cigar, satisfaction is guaranteed.

Check out the original Schott store in Great Neck, New York, to zip up your own slice of Americana.

Zori, Kyoto, Japan

It might seem strange that the flip flop would be born in Japan, a country whose outstanding coastal landscape remains relatively unexplored by foreign travellers (trust us it’s amazing), but this stylistically minimal land was the birthplace of the artistic simple strap shoe in 794 A.D.

the tradtional zori worn with tabi socks

the tradtional zori worn with tabi socks

Raised on a platform of woven straw, the unisex Zori were designed to be worn with the formal kimono during humid summer months (although they’re just as good for walking in snow) and Tabi socks so as not to expose naked toes. In Japan where shoes are frequently removed as a gesture of courtesy, this forward-thinking solution enabled women to avoid bending over in restrictive clothing by doing away with the undoing of laces. It wasn’t until the Second World War that the rest of the world caught on, creating the rubber flip flop beloved by beach bums the world round.

For the authentic elegant Japanese look, head to the old town of Kyoto, Japan, for an insight into the ritual dress of the geisha.

Find out how fashion fuels our travels here.

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spotted: tigers in the sky

searching high and low

searching high and low

Here at Black Tomato we like to keep up to date with goings on in the world of travel and nature. So imagine our excitement when we got wind that our new favourite destination, Bhutan, is home to an undiscovered population of planet earth’s biggest cats. The Himalayan region of Bhutan was thought to be simply too inhospitable for any kind of creature, let alone the stomping ground for the legendary tigers.

high altitude felines

high altitude felines

But the good old cameramen at the BBC have proved sceptics wrong, and have released footage proving these graceful beasts do indeed exist at hair raising altitudes of up to 4100 m. This is ground breaking stuff for conservationists and the Bhutan authorities. Images of a female and male tiger are the first known footage of tigers in the remote mountains of Bhutan, and the first hard evidence that tigers are capable of living at that altitude. Astonishingly, the tigers are living and breeding at such high altitudes even trees and plants can’t survive, and the fact that they can flourish in such remote and hostile environments is an outstanding discovery for these awe inspiring cats and their future.

As there are as few as 3,000 tigers left in the wild today, Bhutan’s officials are hot on the case of saving these powerful beauties from the brink of extinction. BBC producers believe Bhutan could act as a tiger nursery from which tigers could breed safely and spread out to re-populate forests of some of the surrounding countries. Pretty wild we think.

Catch the lost Land of the Tiger on BBC One at 21.00BST on Tuesday 21st, Wednesday 22nd and Thursday 23rd September.

And discover the Himalayan magic of Bhutan on one of our unique experiences.

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colombia’s secret wild west

Abbi Kemp updates us on her travels down in South America. She’s currently in Colombia exploring Salento and tells us why its one not to miss.

Ok, so you have arrived in Bogota it’s grey, raining and yet another city but… lying just a few hours bus ride away is a landscape that will blow your mind. Salento is a tiny town North-West of Bogota. It oozes traditionalism, patriotism and charm.

the cowboys of salento

the cowboys of salento

The streets are filled with old men dressed modestly in ponchos, cowboy hats and handmade leather bags. Proud riders confidently trot through the plaza showing off their immaculately trained horses. It’s like being caught up in an old John Wayne movie. But Colombian style.

The streets are illuminated with brightly painted houses and draping exotic flowers, and trust me, you won’t be able to keep your camera in your bag. At night the plaza comes alive with classic Colombian songs, which the men sing loudly after numerous shots of aguardiente and the bars become packed with locals playing dominoes, cards and pool.

hike the valle de cocora

hike the valle de cocora

The ultimate reason for heading to Salento, aside from its visual charm, is to hike in the Valle de Cocora. Jump on a 20 minute jeep for the most breathtaking views you will see in Colombia. Make sure you take on the trek up La Montana. It’s a tropical version of the Swiss Alps, surrounded by 60ft wax palms and humming birds. Surreal. After you’ve tackled the trek, treat yourself with the local delicacy: freshly caught trout or an equally delicious patacone covered in cheese-y, guacamole-y goodness.

If you’re heading to Colombia then Salento is not to be missed.

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