margie’s adriatic escape

Margie travelled to Croatia to explore sun soaked coastlines and the hidden corners of the Adriatic

A few weeks ago that I jumped on a flight to get to this cool, coastal paradise.

For me, it’s all about that first step off the plane. Arriving in Split, the warm air wrapped around me.  There was not a cloud in the sky (and they never appeared) and smell of the seaside was everywhere.  Split is fantastic: think  white marble and rustic cobbled streets adorned with endless cafes and ice cream parlours, all within the ancient Roman ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. I headed straight to the harbour, put my feet up, bought myself a Maraschino (a local cherry drink) and relaxed to the panoramic view of aquamarine waters lapping Croatia’s coast.  On my first night I explored the winding labyrinth of shops, bars and restaurants in Split, enjoying freshly caught squid washed down with some local wine.

The next day I took the short ferry ride over to Hvar soon arriving at the sparkling white and terracotta roof-topped harbour of Hvar Town.  This is classic Adriatic splendour.  Famed for  luxury hotels and buzzing night-life, I decided to do a bit of exploring off the beaten track.  I took a walk through lavender fields,  ate the local honey on crusts of fresh bread, and  perched myself on the sloping rocks along the coast line to catch some summer rays.

Hvar is the kind of place you come to for a night or two and end up staying.  In fact, that’s exactly what I did. I became friends with the pot-bellied waiter at my favourite restaurant tucked away in the corner of the main square (the best tuna and monkfish in town), and watched  each evening’s sunset fall behind the  hills aligning the town, cocktail in hand.  Total bliss.

I eventually peeled myself off the beach and headed north.  I wanted to see the coastal town of Pag – a place reminiscent of a 1950s Italian film set.  Largely designed by Juraj Dalmatinac, a 15th century architect, Pag is an authentic Croatian city (no modern eye-sores here).  It dazzles against the stark and barren landscape that surrounds it.  I was eager to try the infamous Pag cheese, and, not so surprisingly, found it on almost every corner.  It’s famed for its distinctively salty flavour, a result of sea winds whipping salt onto the nearby sheep-ridden hills, transmitting the flavour in the process.  It was perfect with bread, ham and olives.

Next it was onto the city of Zadar, across the footbridge (no cars allowed here) to the Roman Old Town.  A smaller Split, Zadar follows the ancient Roman street plan of narrow cobbled streets and compact marble buildings, alive with a bustling array of festivals, music and markets.  Every corner I turned found street performers, roasted corn vendors, and ladies weaving the intricate design of lace.  The favourite church was the Romanesque Cathedral of St Anastasia.

My final days were spent along the shore in lazy-town Petrcane.  I jumped from one pizzeria to another (it’s no Italy, but this is fantastic pizza), the majestic coastline to catch some more rays, and Barbarella’s beachclub for evening performances of international jazz and blues.  The icing on an already fantastic trip, I was tempted to stay for a lot longer…

Croatia’s a timeless, stylish destination and barely a few hours away.  The time to head is now too. Croatia has just about avoided a tourism overload  with no high-rise hotels to trample such a wonderful place.  Croatia’s a place not to be missed.

Black Tomato can create your own Croatian escape if you get in touch